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The imperial production centers prioritized pattern-woven silks in mechanically repeated designs, produced with relative speed and ease on the draw-loom. The rare Tyrian, or Murex, purple dye was of ideological importance especially to the Macedonian dynasty that designated its heirs as Porphyrogennetos i. Evans and William D. The Abbasid silk fabrics, imported in significant quantities to Constantinople by Syrian traders, indicate a range in weaving quality-the Byzantine wealthy may well have been dressed in imported Syrian silks, while true panni imperialis were reserved for the court. A novel compound weave, lampasappears in its fully developed version in which different weave structures are combined such as plain weave and twill or satinfirst in Baghdad, and presumably soon thereafter reaching Islamic Spain and Constantinople circa

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Yet others were silks of lesser quality, some made in the Islamic East, and purchased by Western visitors to Constantinople. One striking feature of the finest silk pallia with their large-scale designs and multiple colors is the loom width.

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